Watering-Can Latte

It's been a while but I was recently confronted again with this curious caffe latte receptacle at a local Northern Rivers pub that serves good food and reasonable espresso coffee. The latte itself was smooth made with a reliable, if a little weak in this instance, Vittoria coffee. Unfortunately it came served in one of those awkward metal outer-casings with the bent and very springy twin wire handle. Immediately upon lifting this latte to one's lips, it tilts forward as a vessel designed for watering or pouring. The metal handle also digs into the forefinger leaving deep tram-track indentations. No need for these awkward latte holders which detract from the whole caffe latte experience whilst leaving deep cavities in the fingers. The illustration and description given here are taken from my funny gift book which features, among other weird lattes, what I call the Watering-Can Latte. This receptacle should be relegated to the garden shed. If the latte is made at the correct temperature, there is no need for these unsightly and ungainly encumbrances. Please keep the latte glass unadorned!

Coffee Rocks!

Taking a Sunday morning hike along the glorious coastline of the Yuragir National Park near Yamba in Northern NSW, I began to notice a thick, rich espresso like fluid that seeped from underground springs and then flowed magically over smooth rock. The result was a coastline of divine coffee-coloured rock. A sign in the park then informed me that, not surprisingly, the name given to this espresso coloured rock is "Coffee Rock".
Like most ventures into nature, this leisurely hike was not without its dramas. Our peaceful amble along the walking track was suddenly interrupted by what sounded like the terrifying pounding of approaching hooves. In a cloud of dust we came face to face with two huge, startled kangaroos.

Needless to say by the time we got back to civilisation after a morning immersed in natural images of swirling espresso and close encounters with kangaroos I was ready for a soothing caffe latte. I spied a Segafredo sign in the main street and thought I'd see if the locals could do better than my disastrous German Segafredo experience.
The caffe latte that was served up looked respectable enough although it was served in an unusual glass that tapered in at the base. The espresso itself was bitter and the latte overall lacked that rich flavour I was yearning for and was no match for the natural espresso I'd seen oozing from the tantalising Coffee Rocks.

Ambient Angourie??

"Peace and Harmony". Well having read all the marketing material on the website of this Yamba Eco-resort, tucked away in a peaceful rainforest on the outskirts of town, I was expecting a quiet weekend retreat. Feeling in need of rest, peace and pampering I was so looking forward to this weekend away. Unfortunately I wasn't informed upon booking that I would be sharing the weekend with two wedding parties!! Having been kept awake by raucous,drunken bridal parties half the night, I approached my morning caffe latte in no mood for further anguish. Fortunately my spirits were lifted by a strong Botero espresso served in a 220 ml latte glass and not the parfait variety. The milk was the right temperature and of a reasonably smooth texture. So all was not lost. But be warned if you are planning a peaceful stay at this rainforest resort, check first that you will not be subject to the stress of late night noisy nuptial celebrations.

Coffee with Goethe

"Enjoy when you can, and endure when you must."
Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

Well my German odyssey has come to a close. Only an agonising long-haul flight between me and divine caffe lattes in my home town of Lismore in northern NSW. But before I depart I must give it one more shot. Arriving 3 hours early at Frankfurt airport - there was no way I was going to risk missing my flight and be stranded in the land of the macchiato latte - I pulled up my stool at the only alluring cafe at Frankfurt airport, the Goethe Bar. A cafe named after Frankfurt's prized literary genius and philosopher, who frequented the early coffee houses of Europe with other great thinkers of the Enlightenment, would have to turn out decent coffee and I was ready to give it one last try.
Surrounded by locals drinking large glasses of beer and consuming plates of bratwurst and sauerkraut at 9am, I happily placed my order. Having sworn never again to be lured by the macchiato latte, I went for the safer option - a cappuccino.
With dreams and images of luscious lattes swirling in front of me, I sat back and waited. Then it arrived. Slapped down on the counter by a jolly waitress, was a receptacle that looked like it had been dragged straight from Goethe's crockery cupboard. It was a cup with that time-worn look, dotted with a motif of Goethe's head and bust. This was sitting on an equally time-ravaged looking saucer complete with coffee slops. The coffee had that aerated look with a few meagre sprinklings of chocolate dust on top. I immediately reached into my bag for camera and pen to record this vision from Goethe's kitchen and by the time I resurfaced a miracle had occured. Half of my cappuccino had disappeared. The milk had been so aerated that it had literally evaporated and left me with half a cup of thin watery espresso. Let's hope the coffee was better in Goethe's day. So there my trip ended with me, Goethe and the mystery of the vanishing cappuccino!

marshmallows and macchiatos in Mainz

I saw the culprit at breakfast this morning at my hotel in Mainz - the long life milk carton sitting next to the instant coffee jar. This would explain the strange taste of the lattes I have endured. I have arrived in Mainz after a most enjoyable boat cruise along the Rhine River from Koblenz. After my bad coffee experience at breakfast I was well and truly ready for a shot of espresso so I hit the pavements. I wandered down to the picturesque old town of Mainz and came upon it - a Lavazza coffee sign over a small espresso bar. In I went and perched up on a stool and perused the coffee selections. There it was again. It was either a small macchiato or yes, a macchiato latte. Ha! I wasn't going to be fooled this time.
I ordered the small variety and thought well at least I will get a shot of Lavazza espresso. The macchiato came in a cute Lavazza glass and was just what I needed, if a little bitter. Dogs are everywhere in Germany and here was no exception. There were two giant Golden Retrievers spread out and snoozing taking up much of the floor space!
Being in no hurry I did some further surveillance and noted that the latte glasses on top of the coffee machine were not as huge as those I'd encountered so yes dear reader, I was drawn again to try the macchiato latte!
The picture says it all. This was another example of the Marshmallow Latte. I note the coffee is always poured from a metal jug and added to the milk and the result...A mountainous eruption of foaming milk over the top of the glass that clings to the nose and upper lip and a small layer of bitter espresso beneath. Well I am beaten. The macchiato latte had seduced me yet again and I was the one who came off second best. Never Again!
I fly back to Australia tomorrow. Needless to say, a decent caffe latte will be high on my list of priorities!

Miljoo Meringue

Well not to be beaten I made my way to the next cafe on my list in Koblenz - the delightful Cafe Miljoo, located in a quaint narrow street in the old part of town with cobbled walkways, church bells and old street lamps. The cafe itself has a great vibe with appealing decor, wooden tables and friendly, cheerful waitresses. It also has a great selection of healthy vegetarian foods - a welcome change from bread and cheese! The helpful waitress assisted me with my coffee selection advising that unless I wanted to risk getting a nescafe, I needed to order, yes dear reader, the "macchiato latte"!!
I decided that maybe given the alternative vibe of this cafe that it might be worth the risk, maybe they will do things differently. Alas my optimism soon turned to high anxiety as I saw the approach of my latte. It was the biggest receptacle I'd seen yet. Two hands needed to lift this one. An insipid glass of lightly coffee tinted milk. The milk had been so fiercely whipped that it had developed little soap sud peaks on top and looked more like beaten meringue than the smooth, creamy, coffee streaked surface I have been yearning for. The macchiato latte had struck again!

Kaffee in Koblenz

The macchiato latte just won't leave me alone. I can't seem to escape it. It has heard all the disparaging comments I have made and is seeking revenge. I arrived in Koblenz, a picturesque town where the Rhine meets the Moselle River. This time I had done my research and had narrowed my caffe latte search down to two reputable establishments. So with notes and maps in hand I ventured into the old town and began my search. The first I came upon was the bewitching old coffee house Kaffeewirtschaft, established in 1911. Now I thought somewhere that has been turning out coffee for a century should know how to make a decent caffe latte.
I sat down under the enticing, stone arches and with some hope placed my order, "Caffe Latte bitte?". But then, to my horror, the waitress nodded, "Yes, a macchiato latte". And there it came the huge glass of steaming milk with a tinge of brown clinging to the sides. I instantly ordered another espresso which gave it a bit more colour. Even so the coffee was bitter and dreggy and the milk was like off-tasting soap suds. I wondered what my next caffe latte experience would be like if this is what a century old Kaffee (coffee) institution was turning out. Will I ever be free of the menace of the macchiato latte?!

Coffee Classico!

Sitting up to my morning caffe latte at the Hotel Classico where I have been staying in Bremen, Germany. This morning I am in rapture having been to Maria Farantouri's concert at St Stephani Church. It was a stupendous event and well worth crossing the seas to be there. She sang a host of Theodorakis classics and other moving ballads. She was in fine form and received standing ovations from a packed house. She is a true Greek Diva. I even got to meet her after the show. Sublime!

Coincidentally the Hotel Classico where I am staying in Bremen is owned by a Greek man who has decorated the rooms and restaurant, where I am having my morning latte, in Greek themes. My room is the Saloniki room and is adorned with photos from the owner's beloved homeland. The restaurant has an up-market Greek kitsch feel with Greek columns and large gold framed mirrors and classical Greek wall murals. So I am having a very Greek-German cross-cultural experience!

And the latte...well that sort of fits in as well. As you can see from the image, it is certainly as tall as a Greek pillar and its multi-layers are also reminiscent of the stone segments of the pillars of the ancient Greek temples. I've learned that if you give this creation a stir, you can then taste the espresso which is reasonably palatable and certainly beats the macchiato latte.

So my stay here in Bremen has had the perfect blend. Greek music, Greek Divas and the Greek Pillar Latte at the Hotel Classico!

Macchiato Latte? Bremen Germany

Just got off a very fast train from Frankfurt to Bremen. Having spent 4 hours being jet propelled across Germany I was well and truly ready for a latte by the time my feet hit solid ground. Inside the large Bremen central station arrival hall I saw a vision - a familiar red and black Segafredo sign. Now having had this brand of espresso back home and found it quite palatable I thought I may have found it...I had learnt from a helpful waitress in Frankfurt that what I needed to ask for was a macchiato latte to get what I would normally call a caffe latte, so with confidence and my wheely case in tow I strode up to the counter and placed my order. Then I waited and watched...Down came the tall parfait glass,not a good start, this was then filled to the brim with hot milk. But wait I thought, "Where's the room for the espresso?" Then it came, a tiny metal jug from which was poured a few tiny drops of espresso which did little but add a tiny stain to the milk. So there it was - the macchiato latte...my search for a decent caffe latte continues. As you can see from the image the drops of coffee finally settled in the bottom of the glass, leaving a 4cm layer of white scorched foam on top.
When the coast was clear I made a dash and came upon this jolly group of town musicians who had journeyed to Bremen in search of a better life. My spirits instantly lifted and I decided not to be beaten by the macchiato latte.

Caffeppuccino, Frankfurt

Well I didn't know myself until a week ago that I would be reporting on my next caffe latte experiences from Frankfurt, Germany. I was drawn to fly to Germany on a spontaneous whim to accept an invitation to a concert by the stupendous Greek diva Maria Farantouri. The concert is in Bremen on Oct 1st. It marks the 85th birthday of Mikis Theodorakis, the famous Greek composer whose works Maria will perform, as well as the 20th anniversary of the reunification of Germany - so quite an event and I will be there! Attending a concert in a foreign land is, more importantly, an opportunity for me to explore the local caffe latte scene. Having just stumbled off the plane today after a long haul flight from Australia, I checked into my hotel in a rather dubious but convenient location near Frankfurt's main train station. I then went on what I thought could be an overly ambitious search for an espresso coffee to help me through my jet lag. But to my joy and surprise, I turned the first corner and there it was - Caffeppuccino - an authentic Italian espresso bar. It had that true espresso bar feel of no comfort to discourage malingerers - high stools and benches. This latte came served in a tall glass, with a decorative coffee bean motif and a tall spoon. It was therefore a weaker style latte but made from a satisfying rich espresso. Unfortunately the whole taste was spoiled by the milk which had that strange long-life feel to it. All was forgiven, however. I got my espresso hit and a great panini to go with it and all just around the corner from my hotel...

Beachside Grinders

Don't you just love weekends away...? On a recent weekend trip to the coast to the pleasant north coast town of Yamba, I did as I usually do when in unfamiliar latte territory and put up my latte radar in the hope of spying a cafe that may be able to turn out a decent espresso. Having little success I decided to leave the search for the next morning.
Our hotel was beautifully situated at the other end of the surf beach which therefore meant an hours hike the next morning, involving a long stretch of beach, a scramble over rocky outcrops and a hill climb via a narrow goat track before there was any chance of my morning coffee hit. By the time we hit civilisation my fitness levels had been tested and my yearning for a rich espresso had reached a tipping point.
Having agreed with some trepidation to my travelling companion's enthusiastic suggestion of breakfast at the beachside kiosk next to the rolling waves, I had given up hope of a decent latte. But at least their blackboard sign advertised that they did serve espresso coffee so all was not lost.
My fears however quickly turned to elation as the sign slowly came in to view GRINDERS COFFEE! Here it was at the Yamba beach kiosk, one of my favorite Melbourne blends not experienced since I left the coffee capital. The intrepid nature walk had been worth it. The latte, which could have been a little stronger and with a little less foam on top, was nonetheless smooth and satisfying with that rich and full Grinders taste. All up a tasty breakfast and reasonable latte in rustic natural surrounds away from the main street bustle. Recommended.

Mustard Jar Latte

Nothing like a day in the great outdoors, miles from an espresso machine while immersed in the peaceful splendour of the rainforests of the Border Ranges in northern NSW. My bush walking companions, knowing I would not last the day without a latte top-up, insisted I fill the thermos with a brew of espresso. Unfortunately I wasn't reminded to pack any thing from which to sip this latte substitute. Lucky one resourceful companion emptied out the olives from the mustard jar, which was then hastily rinsed and dried. Well I suppose it did the trick as I managed to get my coffee hit and continue on the day's outing. Such are the hidden perils and potential horrors of a day in nature.

Tall is Small?!

Back again!

... returned from latte exile and once again enjoying the pleasures of the rich espresso from my home coffee machine and the great cafes of my hometown. There have been two new additions to the Lismore cafe scene in my brief absence which I will be checking out for a full report. My two weeks in New York involved a constant and largely fruitless search for a satisfying rich and creamy caffe latte. I should have heeded the prior warnings and done my research before I left, as after two weeks of dripolator coffee, posing as espresso, or espresso that tasted like bitter herbs, I was becoming desperate - so desperate that this latte purist must now kneel down and beg forgiveness for committing the biggest of the coffee purist's sins.

Yes, dear reader, as a last resort, and after advice from an equally desperate fellow traveller, I was drawn to the green and white Starbucks sign ready to see if I had at last found the answer to the unprecedented success of this multi-national coffee giant. In the absence of any evident espresso cafes in the vicinity of our hotel on the Upper-West side, and after my many years of resistance, I nervously and guiltily ventured inside. Noticing that most New Yorkers drank their Starbucks from huge litre containers I was careful to order a small caffe latte. On receiving my paper cup latte, which was twice the size of the regular I was used to back home, I reminded the barista, who was in no mood for a Starbuck's novice, that I had ordered a 'small' latte, to which she gruffly and loudly replied, "A tall is a small!!".

I realised then I was way out of my depth in this establishment. The coffee itself was very bland but with a second shot it at least resembled something like an espresso coffee and gave me the hit I needed to get through my last day in New York.

The Soup Bowl Latte pictured above was one of my better Brooklyn coffee experiences. At least this huge receptacle was given a double shot of espresso and the milk was smooth and creamy in texture. Overall this latte was quite acceptable if a little heavy on the wrists.

By the way, the Sezen Aksu concert at Carnegie Hall on the last night, surrounded by the New York Turkish community, was stupendous! I was on such a high I threw caution to the wind and ventured to Cafe Europa opposite for a late night latte to bid a final farewell to New York. To my surprise and delight, I'd found it. A perfect caffe latte. Rich espresso and creamy frothed milk blended in perfect harmony!

From Lismore to New York

Well latte lovers, I must leave my posting for a couple of weeks as I'm off to the Big Apple to sample their coffee and to attend a Sezen Aksu concert at Carnegie Hall. She's a gorgeous Turkish singer whose music I was introduced to when I lived in Istanbul for two years.

From all reports I hear the espresso coffee in New York is bad, generally speaking. So armed with guide book and a few trusty recommendations, I will venture onto the streets of this vast metropolis with notebook at hand. I will be ready to make a full and frank report upon my return. Until then may your coffee experiences be memorable if not stupendous!

Caffelattedeb-coffee connoisseur and adventurer.

Clothes-Peg Latte

As mentioned in my previous blog, I arrived in my new home town of Lismore, northern NSW, after a 3 month road trip around the western half of Australia - a terrifying prospect for one so reliant on her daily shot of quality espresso. A coffee plunger that came with our rented camper van was not going to satisfy my yen for a real espresso, and so my journey involved the daily search, accompanied by my long suffering latte companion, for a decent caffe latte.

As we pulled out of Alice Springs, where I had indulged in many good lattes, my anxiety levels increased. However, to my delight, our first stop a couple of hours north of Alice at a road side cafe/gallery served up a reasonable Lavazza espresso coffee!! I often find it safer to go for a flat white when ordering in such dangerous territory as a latte here is surely going to be of the parfait glass variety. (see my earlier blog on the parfait latte) On our trip I discovered the odd decent latte in the most unlikely places such as a tiny mining town in the middle of the desert in WA.

The majority of my caffe latte experiences,however, were either disappointing or absolutely mind-blowing. One that will always stand out was in Kununurra in the Kimberley where I experienced the amazing Clothes-Peg Latte. This insipid and over-heated latte came served with a cloth serviette strapped around its middle and clamped together by a clothes-peg. It was an awkward operation to sip this latte with its wooden protrusion and, combined with the appalling taste of the milky substance within, this was a truly horrendous yet unforgettable WA latte experience.

Latte in Lismore

As promised in an earlier blog, I said I would say more about coffee in my home town. Five years ago I left behind the joys of the vibrant Melbourne coffee scene, where I had spent my entire adult life in caffe latte bliss, and in a search for warmer climes moved to Lismore in Northern NSW. Now one may ask what a latte purist like myself was thinking - and not even Byron Bay! Well let me tell you I did my research carefully before taking such a drastic plunge.

I made a quick surveillance trip first and discovered to my delight that even back then Lismore had at least two cafes who knew how to make a decent caffe latte. Satisfied, I bought the cheapest house on the market, returned to Melbourne to pack up my life and then headed back to Lismore - after a road trip for a few months around the Western half of the country (many other caffe latte stories there).

Lismore, unlike its nearby, trendier, seaside cousin, Byron Bay, is a town of 50,000 with a lot of heart and a thriving arts community. It embraces diversity - it has a large and visible gay and lesbian population and it welcomes and supports refugees from several African countries. It has a university, a conservatorium of music and has first class theatre and music productions, both local and imported. I have seen more Bell Shakespeare productions since living here than I did in my 20 years living in Melbourne.

Now don't get me wrong. I still yearn for, and make frequent return visits to, the coffee scene of Melbourne. But Lismore also has its own thriving cafe scene which has grown even more in my time here. Now that I've convinced you that Lismore is a town worth visiting (alas not on a Sunday as the CBD unfortunately closes down) try the following cafes for a reliable caffe latte/coffee. First choice, Dragonfly who serve a good, rich and smooth Merlo coffee with a good vibe. Second, for a more sedate scene. but reliable coffee, try La Baracca. This cafe was established by a couple of urbane Italian boys who understood coffee. It has since changed hands but the coffee is still good.

My Melbourne friends said I'd never last moving to the country but as long as Lismore continues to serve me up a decent caffe latte and the weather remains warm and balmy for most of the year, I will continue to relish this more laid back latte life style.